Sunday, April 5, 2009

Fuse Block

As I mentioned last week, the original wiring on the Spitfire was a mess. After my low speed test failed, I decided to take one of the questionable items out of the equation and bypass the car's original electrical system.

I already had the relay, but I went ahead and bought a new fuse block. Rather than attach all the negative connections to random spots on the car's ground, I bought the model that included the negative terminals. I'll use one of the car's original 12V lines that is closed when the car is "on" to trigger the 12V relay closed. To minimize any resistance / uncertainty, the relay + will be wired directly to where the battery's + cable goes. The fuse block - will be wired directly to where the battery's - cable goes. I won't mess with any of the car's original 12V components since they more/less work now.


I also found two excellent locations for my new components. The fuse block will go next to the car's original fuse(?), and the relay will sit nicely next to the pot box.


Components screwed down and wiring started...


Wiring finished. The new fuse block will handle the motor controller and both contactors. If I add anything new to the car it will also use the new block. Over time I may even transfer some of the car's original components to it.


I tried a second low speed/voltage test with the motor controller. I used two 12V batteries in series - here's the "high voltage" side wired up...


The batteries...


Results: Still didn't work! The contactors and key switch should be operating fine now. I sent an e-mail to the motor controller manufacturer asking for some help. Hopefully he can point me in the right direction as to what's wrong.

2 comments:

Admin said...

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Clint said...

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!