A little eye candy of the car with new tires...
Looks so perty!
Saturday, May 30, 2009
Waiting Game
Unfortunately I haven't had too many updates lately. I'm still waiting for the batteries to come in - possibly 4-6 more weeks. The conversion is almost complete. All I have left to buy are the steel for the battery boxes and the charger. The wait is probably for the best though as my bank account is in recovery mode.
A little eye candy of the car with new tires...
Looks so perty!
A little eye candy of the car with new tires...
Looks so perty!
Saturday, May 2, 2009
New Tires
My hunt for inexpensive replacement wheels didn't turn out very well. I did find a wheel fairly cheap off e-bay to replace my worst one, but it ended up being just slightly wider than my current set. I tried taking a torch to the dented wheel and hammering it back into shape but no luck. I can't afford a new set of wheels right now, so I decided to mount the tires on anyways and hope they could be balanced out enough.
New tire mounted...
I gave the wheel a fresh coat of black as well. These new tires are a size larger; I think they'll fill out the wheel wells nicely.
First new tire washed & mounted, looks great!
I just had to take a picture of the Spitfire's new hood ornament...
New tire mounted...
I gave the wheel a fresh coat of black as well. These new tires are a size larger; I think they'll fill out the wheel wells nicely.
First new tire washed & mounted, looks great!
I just had to take a picture of the Spitfire's new hood ornament...
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
Batteries Ordered
I've ordered my batteries!
After going back and forth between Lithium and Lead countless times, I've finally decided on Lithium! LiFePO4 to be exact. These are a relatively new battery chemistry that don't have the energy density of other Lithium Ion batteries, but they are significantly cheaper and much safer.
They'll last 2000-3000 cycles depending on amount of discharge. I've ordered 30 cells, 3.2 nominal @ 100AHr, for a 96V nominal total voltage. Minimum voltage for a cell is 2.6V, which corresponds well with my controller's 80V minimum. Maximum voltage for a cell is 4.2V, which at 126V peak won't overload my motor. The batteries should fit in a single grouping underneath the hood, and the final weight/balance of the car will match very closely to stock. I purchased with a group from diyelectriccar.com - batteries should arrive in 2-3 months.
After going back and forth between Lithium and Lead countless times, I've finally decided on Lithium! LiFePO4 to be exact. These are a relatively new battery chemistry that don't have the energy density of other Lithium Ion batteries, but they are significantly cheaper and much safer.
Thundersky TS-LFP100AHA
They'll last 2000-3000 cycles depending on amount of discharge. I've ordered 30 cells, 3.2 nominal @ 100AHr, for a 96V nominal total voltage. Minimum voltage for a cell is 2.6V, which corresponds well with my controller's 80V minimum. Maximum voltage for a cell is 4.2V, which at 126V peak won't overload my motor. The batteries should fit in a single grouping underneath the hood, and the final weight/balance of the car will match very closely to stock. I purchased with a group from diyelectriccar.com - batteries should arrive in 2-3 months.
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Old Tires / Wheels
I got a response from my motor controller manufacturer; it turns out the controller has an 80V cutoff so I won't be able to test it until I get my full pack in. The Spitfire is much happier with my new electrical system though (at least according to the car's voltmeter), and I've cleaned up the wiring a bit...
My wife bought me tires for Christmas, but I haven't had time to install them as I've been busy with other parts of the car. My existing tires weren't looking too pretty...
Unfortunately the picture also shows the sad shape of my wheels. After I pulled off the two rear tires I saw just how bad the wheels were. Lots of dents and rust. So much so I'm surprised one of they still hold air! Looks like I'll have to replace them as well.
The Spitfire has a bolt pattern of 4-95.25 - completely nonstandard so the junkyard is out. http://www.victoriabritish.com has a few styles of wheels, but they start at $660. I tried 3 local tire stores, but they'll have to call their suppliers on Monday to get more information. Apparently they may be able to take an unfinished 13" wheel and drill my bolt pattern into it. I'm also keeping an eye on Craigslist. I don't mind a fresh set of wheels on the car, but I'd like to keep it as inexpensive as possible.
My wife bought me tires for Christmas, but I haven't had time to install them as I've been busy with other parts of the car. My existing tires weren't looking too pretty...
Unfortunately the picture also shows the sad shape of my wheels. After I pulled off the two rear tires I saw just how bad the wheels were. Lots of dents and rust. So much so I'm surprised one of they still hold air! Looks like I'll have to replace them as well.
The Spitfire has a bolt pattern of 4-95.25 - completely nonstandard so the junkyard is out. http://www.victoriabritish.com has a few styles of wheels, but they start at $660. I tried 3 local tire stores, but they'll have to call their suppliers on Monday to get more information. Apparently they may be able to take an unfinished 13" wheel and drill my bolt pattern into it. I'm also keeping an eye on Craigslist. I don't mind a fresh set of wheels on the car, but I'd like to keep it as inexpensive as possible.
Sunday, April 5, 2009
Fuse Block
As I mentioned last week, the original wiring on the Spitfire was a mess. After my low speed test failed, I decided to take one of the questionable items out of the equation and bypass the car's original electrical system.
I already had the relay, but I went ahead and bought a new fuse block. Rather than attach all the negative connections to random spots on the car's ground, I bought the model that included the negative terminals. I'll use one of the car's original 12V lines that is closed when the car is "on" to trigger the 12V relay closed. To minimize any resistance / uncertainty, the relay + will be wired directly to where the battery's + cable goes. The fuse block - will be wired directly to where the battery's - cable goes. I won't mess with any of the car's original 12V components since they more/less work now.
I also found two excellent locations for my new components. The fuse block will go next to the car's original fuse(?), and the relay will sit nicely next to the pot box.
Components screwed down and wiring started...
Wiring finished. The new fuse block will handle the motor controller and both contactors. If I add anything new to the car it will also use the new block. Over time I may even transfer some of the car's original components to it.
I tried a second low speed/voltage test with the motor controller. I used two 12V batteries in series - here's the "high voltage" side wired up...
The batteries...
Results: Still didn't work! The contactors and key switch should be operating fine now. I sent an e-mail to the motor controller manufacturer asking for some help. Hopefully he can point me in the right direction as to what's wrong.
I already had the relay, but I went ahead and bought a new fuse block. Rather than attach all the negative connections to random spots on the car's ground, I bought the model that included the negative terminals. I'll use one of the car's original 12V lines that is closed when the car is "on" to trigger the 12V relay closed. To minimize any resistance / uncertainty, the relay + will be wired directly to where the battery's + cable goes. The fuse block - will be wired directly to where the battery's - cable goes. I won't mess with any of the car's original 12V components since they more/less work now.
I also found two excellent locations for my new components. The fuse block will go next to the car's original fuse(?), and the relay will sit nicely next to the pot box.
Components screwed down and wiring started...
Wiring finished. The new fuse block will handle the motor controller and both contactors. If I add anything new to the car it will also use the new block. Over time I may even transfer some of the car's original components to it.
I tried a second low speed/voltage test with the motor controller. I used two 12V batteries in series - here's the "high voltage" side wired up...
The batteries...
Results: Still didn't work! The contactors and key switch should be operating fine now. I sent an e-mail to the motor controller manufacturer asking for some help. Hopefully he can point me in the right direction as to what's wrong.
Sunday, March 29, 2009
Control Box Pt. 4
I wired one of the contactors (with precharge) and the controller to the car's 12V auxiliary system. I haven't seen my new controller in action yet and wanted to see it spin the wheels. There were many loose wires underneath the hood that were disconnected when the engine was removed. I didn't know what they went to, but I used a multimeter to test which ones gave me 12V supply when the key was turned to the on position.
The car wired...
I jacked up the rear end so the tires could spin freely, put the key in the car, turned it to on, and gave it some "gas". The contactor clicked, but the wheels wouldn't spin. I did notice the voltmeter I had installed inside the car showed only 8V with the controller hooked up to the 12V line under the hood. I tried a different 12V line for the controller and the voltmeter showed a much healthier 11V.
What's interesting is I've had the meter show under 10V below (due to loose battery connections), and the radio wouldn't work - probably due to low voltage protection. With the controller installed at 8V the radio still worked though. Unfortunately the car's electrical system is such a mess I can't trace back where those 12V lines originate from.
The 12V + from the auxiliary battery...
A random 30A fuse... Is that the fusebox?
I'm not even going to try...
I'm disappointed that I couldn't get a low speed test done with the controller, but this has convinced me that I need to build a secondary fuse box/system for the car. I'll leave what's existing that works alone, but all my new components will run off the new fuse box.
The car wired...
I jacked up the rear end so the tires could spin freely, put the key in the car, turned it to on, and gave it some "gas". The contactor clicked, but the wheels wouldn't spin. I did notice the voltmeter I had installed inside the car showed only 8V with the controller hooked up to the 12V line under the hood. I tried a different 12V line for the controller and the voltmeter showed a much healthier 11V.
What's interesting is I've had the meter show under 10V below (due to loose battery connections), and the radio wouldn't work - probably due to low voltage protection. With the controller installed at 8V the radio still worked though. Unfortunately the car's electrical system is such a mess I can't trace back where those 12V lines originate from.
The 12V + from the auxiliary battery...
A random 30A fuse... Is that the fusebox?
I'm not even going to try...
I'm disappointed that I couldn't get a low speed test done with the controller, but this has convinced me that I need to build a secondary fuse box/system for the car. I'll leave what's existing that works alone, but all my new components will run off the new fuse box.
Sunday, March 22, 2009
Control Box Pt. 3
Yesterday I went over to a coworker's house and his (amazing) machine/garage shop. He had a handful of copper pieces that he offered to use for the connections between my electrical components.
It was a big game of Tetris trying to see which pieces fit best where.
His vice...
Me working with the grinder...
The first piece!
The second piece!
And fast forward... everything done!
The copper pieces really turned out great. By some miracle the layout I had made weeks earlier worked just right with the copper pieces he had. Thanks so much John!
It was a big game of Tetris trying to see which pieces fit best where.
His vice...
Me working with the grinder...
The first piece!
The second piece!
And fast forward... everything done!
The copper pieces really turned out great. By some miracle the layout I had made weeks earlier worked just right with the copper pieces he had. Thanks so much John!
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